Bulang and Sons Black Speedy Leather Watch Strap
January 17, 2020
In 1961, 6 years before the Apollo 1 fire, the world saw the creation of what is arguably the most beautiful motor car ever produced. The first Jaguar E-Type literally thundered into the Geneva Auto Show (after a legendary 11-hour dash from Coventry to Geneva the night before by Jag Exec Bob Berry only making the show with 20 minutes to spare). As the curtains dropped with the exhaust still hot all jaws dropped and the world stood still in silence as they attempted to catch their breath in unison as they knew automotive history was sitting before them. No car before and arguably no car since (64 1/2 Mustang may be close) has had such an impact on the world.
If that ’61 E-type got the heart pumping a bit, the Uber limited 18 car run of E-type Lightweights should send you positively tachycardic. Made of entirely hand rolled aluminum bodies (unheard of in 1963) and having a more powerful engine the lightweights were competition thoroughbreds (driven by none other than Sir Jackie Stewart and Graham Hill) meant to do battle on the track. Jaguar produced only 12 of the 18 lightweights in 1963, still holding onto the serial numbers of the last 6 for future use.
Time marched on and priorities shifted, racing rules evolved and economies fluctuated. Those cars never got built. But Jaguar being Jaguar means passion for the E-type never dies. As Porsche loves the 911 and Nissan adores the 240Z, the E-type is in the DNA of the company. To bring it back in any form would obviously be a financially dubious task. To bring back an exact recreation of the lightweight would be a maniacal herculean effort that makes no practical sense and is the veritable definition of a money pit. However, in 2015 Jaguar against all common sense did just that. They pulled out the old drawings and tooling and resurrected the last 6 unused serial numbers and painstakingly brought to life 6 more aluminum body lightweight E-type Jags that were nearly identical to the originals. They were constructed using the same techniques, at the same factory, by the same company that made them before. They were recreated accurately down to the millimeter and then, surprisingly, offered for sale. Why would a company embark on such a monumental task? In a word: Passion. Jaguar willed into existence a car that has been out of production for over 50 years for no other reason except the love of the product. This kind of devotion is rooted deep in unrelenting and unwavering passion. To recreate a car from the past, and do it to a level acceptable by Jaguar took a lot of uncompromising people doing a lot of uncompromising work.
This is a watch strap review website though, so why did I tell you that story? The work done to bring back the lightweight Jag and the passion behind that endeavor is the same kind of passion that drove the work of one Bernhard Bulang, the owner of Bulang and Sons to recreate and even improve some of the original Omega watchstraps of the past. (www.bulangandsons.com) The first straps that were chosen for this Lazarus treatment were those dedicated to the Omega Speedmaster.
Long before the Speedmaster experienced Zero G’s in space it experienced Max Gs in the racing world. Since its inception, the Speedmaster has had devotees the world over. Considered by some the most iconic watch ever produced, the Omega Speedmaster has a legacy no other watch will soon surpass. To bring back the original straps for this watch would mean Mr. Bulang would have to be one part archeologist, one part businessman, and one part watch aficionado. Lucky for us, he managed to be all of that and then some. Bernhard managed to track down near perfect condition examples of original Omega Speedmaster straps. However, that would not be nearly enough to accomplish the level of precision he was looking for. He went on to find the original company in Germany, (Kaufmann) who made OEM straps for the German and Swiss watch industries from the 40’s to the 80’s including the Speedmaster strap. A deal was struck and a strap that had not been made for over 50 years was about to be made again.
Let that sink in for a second. It does not get any more original than this.
The same company, owned continuously by the same family, with all the original jigs and tooling, using the same techniques was going to be mading Speedmaster (and other vintage Omega) straps again. Combine that with the shared passion of Mr. Bulang and Mr. Kaufmann, the resulting straps could be nothing but legendary as a more perfect melding of history, heritage, passion and experience rarely occurs. Together these two watch strap enthusiasts came up with this resounding and resolute goal:
We combine the original tools, the soul and craftmanship of over seventy years of experience and add the Bulang and Sons sense for quality and details to create the perfect strap for your (Vintage + Modern) Speedmaster. Praising the original heritage with subtle style and the highest quality. This very quickly turned into a collection and not just the one perfect strap for your Speedmaster.
Before I get into the review, I wanted to place a link to the whole detailed story provided to me by Mr. Bulang (where most of the pics came from above) that chronicles in great detail (too much for me to list all of it here) how this meeting happened and how the straps are actually made. If my words have wet your appetite, please take a moment to read and enjoy the full story as it is ripe with flavor and detail that will get anybody who adores artisanship and quality excited.
I am going to be reviewing the new reissue of the Black Speedmaster Racing strap that came installed on many Pre-moon Speedmasters like the one shown in the image below:
DIMENSIONS
Because I have a First Omega In Space and not a modern Speedy Professional I am reviewing the 19mm version. My strap was 18.9mm at the lugs and tapering evenly to 16.2mm at the buckle. This is a very elegant and vintage style taper that was present in abundance on vintage style straps. I took a chance and ordered the short version of the strap that is 105mm/65mm on the free end and buckle end respectively. Out of 6 adjustment holes I find myself on the 3rd or 4th for a good comfortable fit on my 7” wrist with just enough strap left to make it through both keepers.
The strap appears visually to be an even thickness from the lugs to the ends only varying at the extreme ends with it being 3.2mm at the lugs and 2.8mm at the very tip. Most of the strap hovers right around 3mm, which is a sweet spot as it allows the strap to have enough bulk to be sporty, but it is thin enough to be extremely comfortable and flexible.
DESIGN
When creating something to be historically accurate details matter. Nothing can be left out or done haphazardly. The leather chosen was high quality calfskin prepared in such a way as to have a vintage aesthetic with a deep rich feeling satin finish. The leathers’ thickness is spot on with this strap as it gives the strap genuine presence without ever being bulky or cumbersome. This thickness allows the design features some room or depth into the strap to work on three dimensions where a thin strap would not be able to support the details found here.
The strap has 3 main design embellishments. The most subtle is the black stitching around the edge of the strap. This was, like the rest of the strap, done entirely by hand by the experienced staff at Kaufmanns who have been making straps for three generations. The stitching is incredibly even in spacing and tension and serves as a frame for the more dramatic design elements that truly set this strap apart.
Next are the rally holes in the strap. Like any motorsports themed strap, rally holes are a nod to a time when string back driving gloves were worn to allow the skin to breath while remaining flexible and comfortable. The rally holes in the Black Speedy Leather Watch strap perform a similar role. They allow moisture on the skin an outlet to escape which both cools the skin and prevents irritation, which is important as anybody with a young baby will tell you, dry skin is happy skin. The holes also give a nod to a time when lightness mattered and having just enough material to keep the car together but not one ounce more was the difference between winning and being relegated to a forgotten second.
The stitching and rally holes solidify the theme of what a racing strap should be. With these two firmly in the design que there will be no mistaking what this strap is meant to do and what kind of watch it should be attached. However, this particular strap has an ace up its sleeve (or strap if I may be a bit ‘on the nose’). Each side of the strap has three long rectangular heat pressed grooves that run lengthwise down the top side of the strap. They serve as a backdrop for the rally holes to reside, and add a stunning amount of visual interest. I cannot stress enough how this simple design addition plays with the light and gives the strap depth and complexity without ever being confusing or cluttered.
An all-black strap with black stitching can easily cross the line from understated and subtle and take a nosedive into the realm of boring and forgettable. These three visual additions, the stitching, rally holes, and rectangular embossing however, take plain black and make it a visual feast for the eyes. The satin finishing to the leather reflects just enough light to make this three-dimensional strap visually enticing and not forced or fake. The combination of a perfect vintage design and Bulang and Sons talent with leather design is paying dividends here and it is a joy to behold.
The underside of the strap is completely free of any markings or brandings, which while very clean, leaves me wanting to see something. While it would be completely hidden 100% of the time, it would be nice to have a Kaufmann Embossing on the inside of this strap as their historical link to vintage Speedy straps is genuine and should be celebrated even if it is just on the inside of the strap. But I am a sucker for nostalgia.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
The Racing Black Speedy leather Watch Strap comes with the typical two keeper system with one being fixed and the other left to float to secure any extra strap left after fastening the buckle. The keepers are made of the same exquisite leather as the strap and the two easily slide against one another to make slipping the extra length through the keepers a pleasure rather than a chore.
I have several Bulang and Sons straps and without fail they all come with a very well done albeit simple buckle with a nice laser etched B&S on the visible edge of the clasp. However, it was immediately apparent to me that this buckle is not of the same ilk. It is a far more substantial piece. Not bulky in any way, but the edges are the tiniest bit thicker and more robust, the brushing looks more purposeful, the B&S logo looks a smidge larger and the whole thing is just feels better made than standard buckles. If I were a consultant, I would want this buckle on all B and S straps in the future. It feels more upscale.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
The moment you take the strap out the Bulang and Sons presentation box, you get a feel for this sublime leather. It is not luxurious like Shell Cordovan or some delicate French calf leather rather it gives a feeling of lasting quality and durability without being stiff or rigid. It comes across as a strap that can take being worn for a decade or two and still come back for another 10 years. The leather is dyed in a fashion that pull-up is completely eliminated. Pull this strap or flex it or bend it and it will be the same rich deep satin black as when it is straight.
The texture of the strap to the touch is very smooth and while you feel its strength, the overwhelming tactile characteristics are twofold: flexibility and comfort. The inside of the strap appears to be made of the same material as the outside. All of these physical attributes produce a strap that exudes both comfort and durability each in equal measure. That is an extremely hard balancing act to pull off.
As I wore this strap for a week, it become harder to take my eyes off of it. The dimensional embellishments of the strap beg to be noticed, and yet taken together, scream at the wearer less than white contrast stitching alone would. This could be the best strap I have ever had on my speedy.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
I have said it before; I love it when a product is laser focused on one thing and never deviates from that path. Most of the time that kind of dedication pays huge dividends to those who take the time to notice. This style strap was the original equipment on Omega Speedmasters in the 60’s, and it should be no shock that this strap on any Speedmaster, modern or vintage will form a perfect symbiosis.
I will take it further. Get out any Heuer, or Chopard, or Zenith Chrono and this strap will cast its spell in equal measure to the iconic Speedy. This is a racing chronograph strap and I would love to see it celebrated on any chronograph or motorsports themed watch in your collection. The quality and construction are undeniable and I believe this is easily one of the greatest rally straps I have ever worn.
WHERE CAN I GET IT
Bulang and Sons has an online store where you can purchase this and other Speedy reissue straps: I recommend you pick them up there. They have great packaging and incredibly fast shpping.
SUMMARY
When Jaguar decided to bring back the lightweight E Types, they knew it would be a grueling labor of love. It would take people of passion and skill to all pull in the same direction and do something completely illogical for no other reason but the mutual love of the product. Bernhard Bulang along with the extremely talented artists at Kaufmann have made something that is truly worthy of its heritage and I think this a strap that all who are involved in its creation can stand up in front of the whole watch community and say we made that. I am very proud to write this review and will cherish this watch strap for a lifetime to come.
I cannot thank Mr. Bulang enough for sending me one of these black straps to review. I purchased another Omega strap reissue that will be reviewed soon. But I also wanted to say thanks for allowing me to use the many pictures that were so masterfully taken by him and his team and allowing me access to the information and story behind these amazing straps.